Saturday, November 16, 2013

#752 Inle Lake, Myanmar (Burma)

Where in the world do people still live on reed islands? Perhaps you've heard of Lake Titicaca in Peru, but much of that is for tourists now. In Myanmar, the large Inle Lake remains a truly island civilization, without the tourists to support it, although many tourists do visit now.

The Lake is not deep (averaging between 7 and 12 feet depending on the season), so  many of the floating islands are connected to the lake floor. In some areas poles able to push the small boats along, but in the middle of the lake the fishermen still use long paddles which they push with their feet curled around them standing up, so to be better able to see the fish, kyun myaw (floating islands), and beda (water hyacinth) and use the large cone-shaped nets to harvest carp (nga-hpein). Many towns are scattered along the shores, if you could really say that it has a clear shoreline, but the 17 village islands on stilts in the middle are vital for cultivation, trade and living.

The weekly market rotates through the various villages and is like something from the Middle Ages that emerges from the cool mists to reveal bullocks for sale along with roots, rice, vegetables, grains and of course the ubiquitous souvenirs. The 70,000 mostly Intha people of the area (although Shan, Pa-O/Taungthu, Taung-yo, Danu, Kayah, Danaw, and Bamar people are also present) continue to live as they have for centuries, following Buddhist traditions like visiting the 100 or so kyaung and 1000 stupas dotted around the area, with strongly Shan-influenced architecture and hardworking fishermen and agricultural lifestyles. The floating islands, with their marsh, hyacinth, soil masses, are incredibly fertile and kept stable by being staked to the bottom with bamboo poles. Other production includes silk weaving for garments, silver and lacquerware, and weaving of Shan-style shoulder bags.

Mystical, magical, otherworldly, and simple, it is an incredible place to visit! From the main township of Nyaungshwe at the northern end, to the typically Shan villages in the south, each little village offers something unique from a Jumping Cat Monastery (#945) at Nga Hpe Chaung, to a paper making factory, the Floating Market at Ywama, Lotus Weavers at Kyauk Taung, and hot springs at Kaung Daing. The Indein stupa and monastery to the south-west is also superb.

Around 22km long and 11km wide, it's altitude at 875m above sea level gives it an excellent climate. It has 20 species of snails and 9 species of fish unique in the world, but is suffering from environmental threats from increasing agriculture and tourism.

Source: Lonely Planet Myanmar 9th Edition 2005
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Inle_Lake

Wednesday, November 13, 2013

#753 Palma de Mallorca, Spain

In its past life it was a Roman camp, but it suffered Vandal and Viking attacks, was influenced by the Byzantines, before being a Moorish stronghold (with both Muslims and Syrian Christians bringing their influences) until the Reconquista and James I established his control. Now it is a sailing hub, a strong Mediterranean destination, and a holiday location for the royals of Spain.
Capital of the autonomous Balearic Island provinces, it shows the influences of all its rulers in its narrow street layout (Moorish), architectural heritage (Byzantine cathedrals) and strategic location (Bellver Castle).
File:Castillo de Bellver.jpg
From Wikipedia Commons
The gothic-style Bellver Castle was built in the 14th Century for King James II, and is one of the few circular castles in Europe, possibly modeled on the Herodion in the West Bank, although with strong Moorish influences and use of former minarets. The castle was given to the City of Palma in 1931 by the republic to become a museum. The views from the top over the Bay of Palma are superb!

Why is it amazing? Its paths are as windy and narrow with as lovely restaurants as anywhere on the mainland, but the palm-tree breezes and nearby caves and beaches give it a holiday feeling. Island fever with historical city charm!

 

Sunday, November 10, 2013

#754 Ollantaytambo, Peru

View from the temple complex

View from the Pinkylluna on the opposite hill.

The unpronounceable Ollantaytambo (thankfully known to locals as Ollanta) was one of my favorite places in Peru.I think I loved it so much because it was just as impressive as Machu Picchu (#1000) but unless you've been there, you probably haven't heard of it. It is the stepping off point for almost all travelers to its more famous cousin as the train and Inca trail both depart from here. I like to think that this was the place that travelers visited when they came before Machu Picchu was discovered (pre-1915). The Sacred Valley has many beautiful sites, but this one is just so charming, and it has been continually inhabited since before the Spanish arrived (13th Century), and you can still see the stone work in the walls of the houses.
60km northwest of Cuzco at 2792m elevation, it is a backed on three sides by steep mountains. The beautiful Rio Urubamba glides quietly past down the hill from town, but the spectacular part of the location are the two Inca sites that tower over the town. The Incan city planning is evident in the narrow cobble-stoned streets and alleyways, well-designed for the rainy climate with deep drains on either side of every path. The Spanish moved the square away from the original Incan space, to where the original entrance to town was. 
The Spanish can't remember the town too fondly as it is one place where they suffered a loss in a major battle. After Manco Inca retreated here after his Sacsaywaman loss, Hernando Pizzaro followed him here in 1536, along with 70 cavalrymen and other indigenous and Spanish foot soldiers. The site makes a magnificent stronghold with its high ground, and it was used well with arrows being showered down on the advancing troops, and prepared irrigation channels allowed Manco Inca to flood the plains below the fortress. Retreating Spaniards were further harassed by the victorious Incas, although they were to return and conquer, of course.

Under the Incas it was the royal estate of Emperor Pachacuti, and the terraced area, mis-labeled as a fortress, protected and provided for an important temple, and beautifully worked stone can still be seen at the top of the terracing (not to mention in the terrace construction itself which were made of cut stone instead of rough rock). The site was unfinished and while some may attribute this to the arrival of Europeans, it was actually more likely to be caused by the war of succession between Huascar and Atahualpa. The rock was mined a considerable 6km away and shows both incredible engineering and transportation skills, especially considering they diverted the whole river around the stones rather than attempt to cross with them! Further signs of their water management can be found up the valley from town in the sites of the Templo de Agua and the Baño de la Ñusta where small fountains and water pools are intact, although mostly dry. The terraces themselves were incredible as they created mini-climates 2 to 3 degrees warmer than the surrounding area, allowing lower altitude plants to be grown at this height.

On the other side of town, the Pinkulluna (Inca storehouses) can be seen in 3 clear rows high up on the hillside. 

Source: Lonely Planet Peru 7th Edition (2010)
 

Friday, November 8, 2013

#755 Bariloche, Argentina

On the edge of the Andes on a beautiful tree-ringed lake, with superb bays and inlets, and spectacular snow capped peaks peering down on the town, is the capital of Argentina's Lake District: San Carlos de Bariloche.
A popular destination for groups of Argentinian teenagers in summer celebrating their end of year, and the most famous ski destination in the region in winter, it is an outdoorsy place, whether for fishing, hiking, climbing or generally enjoying the scenery. The town itself is dotted along the shore of Lago Nahuel Huapi, with the elite Llao Llao resort at one end and the airport at the other. 2000m high peaks flank the town's back slopes with a beautiful funicular/gondola ride up Cerro Cathedral to more rolling hills and trails and spectacular views over the lake.
The main square has a Swiss-Patagonian vibe that is enhanced by the amazing chocolate for sale on every corner. The Civic Center buildings of local stone were built in 1940 and are now a national monument. The town was only founded as recently as 1902 (1250 inhabitants by 1909)and made accessible with the arrival of the Ferrocarril Roca train in 1934.
The name of the town comes from Mapudungen for 'people behind the mountain' and it has grown to be an important Argentinian center although it previously had closer ties to Chile than Buenos Aires.
Source: Lonely Planet Argentina 8th Edition 2012
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/San_Carlos_de_Bariloche