#680 Bosra, Syria

If you do a search of images of Bosra, Syria, more than likely, an image similar to the one above will show up. In a time when much of Syria is at war, Bosra's historical Roman legacy is still stronger than its current struggle. When I visited in 2007, pictures of Assad were hanging untarnished, and the ruins of Bosra were full of students in uniform learning of their heritage. Deep in Druze country, it is one of the less-renowned cities from antiquity.

Its full name is Bosra ash-Sham, and indeed, its 2nd Century AD 15,000-seat Roman theatre is one of the best -preserved - being encompassed by an Arab fortress has helped its preservation! It is also rare in that it is free-standing instead of built into a hillside. Much of the town itself is constructed with black basalt blocks over and around other parts of Roman ruins.

The first city we crossed upon entering Syria (it is close to the border with Jordan), it was first mentioned in Egyptian records as early as 1300 BC (as 'Busrana'). It was briefly the capital of the Nabataens (as 'Bosora', ahead of Petra (#873), to the south), before being annexed by the Romans on orders from Trajan in 106AD and being renamed Nova Trajana Bosra and the capital of the Province of Arabia. A new road linking it with Damascas (north) and Amman (#935, south), being a location for a Roman legion garison (the 3rd Cyrenaica Legion which included soldiers from across the empire, such as the Brittany soldier evidence found by archaeologists) and being surrounded by excellent agricultural land meant it was important for food, trade and administration. Philip, emperor of Rome from AD244-49 came from here and therefore made the town a metropolis and had the town produce coins of his likeness.

Byzantine times brought 33 priests overseen by a primate and the largest cathedral in the region built in the 6th Century. Mohamed is said to have passed through as a child with his merchant uncle and encountered a Nestorian monk named Boheira (Bahira), with whom he engaged in theological discussion, and who recognized his greatness and future Prophet status (partially due to a cloud that followed him and protected him from the sun). Muslims took the town in 634, and they repelled two crusader attacks in the 12th Century (1140 and 1183). It was the Umayyads and Ayyubids who fortified the theatre transforming it into a citadel, with further fortifications added by the Fatimids in the 11th Century, and it continued to be important as a stop on the pilgrimage route to Mecca throughout the Middle Ages, although in Ottoman times security diminished so pilgrims tended to use a route further west. Devastating raids by the Hulagu and his Mongol hordes also occurred before the Mamelukes took control. The citadel ended up with eight towers connected by thick walls protecting the theatre, which was partially obscured by sand and later buildings until the 20th Century.

The Decumanus

30+ other sites to see in Bosra include the Bab al-Qandil (Gate of the Lantern), the Bab al-Hawa (Gate of the Wind), the public baths, a hippodrome, a nymphaeum/public fountain, the Roman market, the Mosque of Omar (said to be built by Caliph Omar who conquered Syria in 636, but more likely reconstructed by the Ayyubids in the 12th Century), the 1372 Hammam Manjuk, the small Mosque of Fatima, and a 4th Century monastery, the in-poor-repair circa-512 cathedral (used as a model for the Hagia Sofia), a Nabatean arch and column, a Roman reservoir (Birket al-Haj or Pool of the Pilgrimage). This is aside from the Byzantine palaces and cathedrals and 36 mosques. 

Source: Lonely Planet Syria & Lebanon 2nd Edition 2004
               Michelin Neos Guidebooks Syria & Jordon 2000

#883 Krak de Chevaliers, Syria

Near the border between Lebanon and Syria in the historic hills controlled by so many different peoples over the millenia, lies the Krak de Chevaliers, one of the most famous crusader castles. Castles are one of my favorite relics of history -- they are living history, moving out of a story book and into an imaginable reality. The ramparts, the arches, the tunnels, the turrets and towers -- all of them can bring history to life, although I think my favorite architectural feature are the narrow windows created to make it as difficult as possible to throw or shoot something inside (but still wide enough for an arrow to be shot out). The layers of inhabitants from the underground servants, to the kitchens, and the barracks for soliders -- all are fascinating.

Krak de Chevaliers (a name coined as recently as the 19th Century when romanticism caused a revival in interest in the crusader ruins) has over time been the residence of Kurds, the County of Tripoli (which lay just north of the Kingdom of Jerusalem), the Knights Hospitalier, and was conquered by the Mamluk Sultan Baibars after a 36 day seige. It watches over the strategic Homs gap, and is only one of a series of castles that helped Christian crusaders keep control of the Holy Land.

As one of the most important preserved medieval castles in existence, it holds many fascinations including a large chapel, hall of the knights, inner and outer wards, many walls including decorative frescoes. If you're lucky you'll find your way into a dark cavern down a seemingly never-ending stairwell -- bring a torch!

From the Lonely Planet: Described by TE Lawrence as the ‘finest castle in the world’, this hilltop Crusader fortress might be 800 years old but, like a good botox treatment, stands tight and taut against the ravages of time. It’s the classic blueprint of a medieval castle, its thick outer walls separated from the inner structure by a moat dug out of the rock. Inside, it’s a minitown, complete with a chapel, baths, a great hall and a Gothic loggia. The most visible sign of ageing is the vegetation that grows from its walls; nothing a good shave wouldn’t fix.

Read more: http://www.lonelyplanet.com/themes/photography/what-an-eyeful-the-worlds-most-beautiful-buildings/?intaffil=lpemail#ixzz2Zinx5m6c

Source: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Krak_des_Chevaliers 

#952 Palmyra (Tadmor), Syria

One of the biggest, most majestic, and well preserved cities of the ancient Romans is a long way from Rome in the deserts of Syria, on the way to Iraq.

Called Tadmor (its ancient Semitic name) by the locals, it is an impressive site, not only in its completeness. The colonnades, ruins, mosaics, carvings, and temples are superb.

Dating back to around the 2nd millenium AD, but with the majority of the ruins being from the 2nd century AD, its location was incomparable on the traveller's path, with caravans stopping here en route between Mesopotamia, Arabia and Egypt.

A scandalous story of murder and betrayal is told about Odainat (commander of the Roman forces) and his wife Zenobia. After his assassination (perhaps at her hands) she took control of the entire region in the name of her son, declaring him emperor, with a strong if doomed show of power, which ultimately helped contribute to Palmyra's downfall.

There are many important buildings: the Temple of Bel, the Nabo Temple, Diocletian's Baths, a theatre, the much-photographed Tetrapylon (four sets of standing columns, but sadly mostly made of concrete), the Agora courtyard, the Temple of Baan Shamin, and of course the impressive colonnaded row.

The Valley of the Tombs is separate from the main site. The view from the Qala'at ibn Maan (the Arab castle) on the top of the hill is incredible, particularly at sunset!

Source: Lonely Planet Syria and Lebanon 2nd Edition