Showing posts with label Sri Lanka. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Sri Lanka. Show all posts

Monday, June 17, 2013

#817 Polonnaruwa, Sri Lanka

It would be hard to say exactly what was the most amazing thing about Polonnaruwa because there were so many fantastic historical relics. From giant stupas, to intricately carved buddhas, to triangular temple buildings to rows of pillars, beautiful small pond-tanks, and the famous carved circular entrance stones. It still astounds me as to why this place is not more famous in the world -- both Polonaruwa and Sri Lanka. It is truly amazing!

Cool facts: 
-For 3 centuries it was the royal capital of both Chola and Sinhalese Kingdoms
-Even if it is only (!) 1000 years old, it is in very good repair
-Apparently, the location was chosen because of its strategic position and because it supposedly had fewer mosquitoes than other locations
-It was built by King Parakramabahu I who lived from 1153-86
-The ruins are separate from the new town, and are divided into five groups: those near the Rest House (a British empire relic), the Quadrangle group just north of the Royal Palace (citadel) group, the Northern Group, and the Southern Group.
The huge 2500 hectare ancient tank "Sea of Parakrama" next to the town.
Polonnaruwa South
There are not many ruins in the southern complex.
Polonnaruwa Rest House Group
The Rest House is a pleasant colonial house on the shore of the big tank. These ruins are often the first visited because of their proximity to town.
Polonnaruwa Citadel
Parakramabahu's Palace is a beautiful ruin -- 31m by 13m and supposedly 7 stories high (probably in wood). This area has the audience hall with beautiful elephant freizes around its base (all in different positions and lions at the top of the steps, as well as a bathing pool with superb crocodile-mouth spouts.
Polonnaruwa Quadrangle
Including a chapter house, Bodhisattva shrine, bodhi tree shrine, a vatadage, the finest moon stone in Sri Lanka (purportedly) a gedige, hatadage (tooth relic chamber), the Gal Pota (longest stone book in Sri Lanka), a lattice-stone fence with pillars shaped like lotus stalks, and an almost Cambodian -style 7 story tower, atadage (another tooth relic chamber).
Polonnaruwa Northern Group
North of the city walls is this group of ruins on the former royal cremation grounds. The famous 'Gal Vihara' of Buddha images are beautiful and a bit too well-protected (overhangs leave many shadows on the sculpture). This complex includes Rankot Vihara (a great dagoba near to a former hospital), Buddha Seema Pasada (the monastery abbot's convocation hall), Lankatilaka (a huge gedige with 17m walls, and a large headless Buddha -- beware of offending local visitors by putting your back towards the Buddha to take your photo), Kiri Vihara ("Milk-White", so called because when years of detritus were removed the limestone underneath was in excellent condition). I particularly liked the Lotus Pond where the whole shape and its concentric rings is reminiscent of the flower.
Source: Lonely Planet Sri Lanka

Friday, May 3, 2013

#837 Dumballa Cave Temple, Sri Lanka

It's a nothing-in-it town on a highway near the amazing Sigiriya (#983), but its history is ancient and varied. The complex includes both the Rock Temple and Golden Temple, and visits require a hike up the hill, or at least, up several stairs. With supposedly the world's larges Dharmchakkra pose Buddha (at 30m), the best views of the countryside are actually from behind him!
Personally, I did find the complex quite distastefully commercialized, but I absolutely loved all the cheeky monkeys hanging around, ready to prey on your snack or lunch or camera and the moment's hesitation.
The complex is thought to date back to 1st C BC (King Valagambahu took refuge here when running from Anuradhapura), and because he received refuge, he had cave interior carved into the magnificent rock temples (once he regained throne, of course). Later kings left their own marks: King Nissanka Malla gilded the interior -- thus "Golden Rock" (Ran Giri) not to be confused with Myanmar's own Golden Rock (#931). The aspect that was most amazing was that the upper area had five separate caves, 150 buddha images, and many Buddhist paintings, most dating from the more recent 19th Century. Cave II (Maharaja Viharaya) is probably most impressive at 52m long, 23m wide, 7m high, Cave III (Maha Alut Viharaya) and Cave V (Devana Alut Viharaya), were both supposedly converted from a storerooms in the 18th century.



Source: Lonely Planet Sri Lanka, 9th Edition

Monday, April 15, 2013

#844 Mirissa Beach, Sri Lanka

Similar to the perhaps more famous Unawatuna, further along Sri Lanka's southern coast, past many beautiful stretches of beach and picturesque coves lies Mirissa. Of surfing fame, its headland divides the sleepy fishing village from a long stretch of gorgeous sand. It's a low-key spot where visitors eat fresh seafood from simple shacks on the sand. 

Perfectly clear water makes it ideal for snorkelling, but lying on the sand or wandering up to the Kandavahari temple on the top of the hill or checking out the fishing fleet in the bay next door are equally enjoyable. Parrot Rock, the outcrop of land seen below is a great sunset or fishing spot.

The nearest town is Matara.
Sources: Lonely Planet Sri Lanka 9th Edition