#743 Ceuta & Melilla, Spain




www.marrocos.com

When I lived in Morocco, the two African enclaves belonging to Spain fascinated me. That Spain would continue to claim such a territory in a vestige of colonialism was crazy, especially with repeated calls from Morocco to return them. It is also ironic considering that Spain demands the return of Gibraltar (#877). Despite being strategic port cities, they have little appeal for most Spaniards to the point that the Spanish government had to offer them tax-free status in order for them to get people to live there.

Mellila according to www.paradiseintheworld.com

http://hablemosunpocodetodo.blogspot.com/2010/08/ceuta-y-melilla.html

They were a convenient place for us to be able to renew our Moroccan visas, but an unfortunate flat tire set us back so when we arrived at Mellila in the middle of the night, I felt bad leaving our Moroccan friend alone on the Moroccan side (with the rental car that could not cross), that I never even got there. I went to Ceuta, but my boyfriend didn't want me to leave Morocco, so it prevented me from really luxuriating and enjoying it. I think he was jealous he could not visit without his passport, and I suppose it was selfish of me to want to linger there with them waiting.

I remember Ceuta being a particularly unexciting little Spanish town, with the banks and shops closed because it was Sunday. There was a beautiful mosaic in the bank, however... funny how you remember these things!

Looking at photos of Mellila and Ceuta (known as Sebta in Arabic) I would like to return and see them again with adult eyes.

Source: http://paradiseintheworld.com/melilla/




#749 Seville Cathedral, Spain

The first time I went to Seville, it was a quick weekend trip from Morocco over Easter with several exchange friends from Al Akhawayn University. I don't think we slept for three days, doing the 8 hour drive to the coast in a shared taxi to catch the last ferry on Friday night. We cramped into a tiny hotel in Algeciras, while others roamed the streets all night. We took the first bus to Seville which was probably at least 5 hours, and arrived in the middle of the parades -- I was astounded to see that the Klu Klux Klan hoods had their origins in Catholic ritual and couldn't stop looking at the many white masks. I was entranced with my first experiences of tapas, sangria, all-night salsa bars, and the magic of Spain. I watched the sunrise after one particular night-spot, then began the long journey back in order to make it just in time for class on Monday morning! That time I was only in Seville very briefly, but I was destined to return for a work conference many years later. I only visited the cathedral very briefly on my first visit, following one parade float in and out the massive doors.

The most memorable symbol of the cathedral, the tower called Giralda was actually built during Moorish Spain as the minaret of the Almohad Mosque (begun in 1184). Similar to the Mezquita (#946) in Cordoba, the mosque was converted into a church (and the Giralda a bell tower) after the Reconquista (1248). The Giralda was designed by the same architect (Jabir) as the Koutoubia mosque in Marrakech (#988) and the Hassan Mosque in Rabat (#864), although the top part of La Giralda dates from the Renaissance. I found it most impressive because it has no stairs to ascend to the top, only a ramp, and this ramp is high and wide and flat enough that a horse can be ridden all the way up!

Officially called the Cathedral of Saint Mary of the See, it is the largest gothic church and the third largest church in the world. It surpassed the biggest at the time (the Hagia Sophia) when it was completed in the 16th century, having taken over a 100 years to build (1402-1506). It was damaged and/or destroyed by several earthquakes such as in 1356, 1376, 1511, and 1888. 

The nave is the longest in Spain and rises to a height of 42m. It has 80 chapels inside and 15 doors on its four sides: aside from the Main Door (the Door of Assumption), there are the Door of the Baptism, the Door of the Nativity (or Saint Michael), the Door de la Longa (or Saint Christopher), Door of the Conception, Door of the Lizard (a stuffed crocodile hangs from the ceiling!), Door of the Sanctuary, Door of Forgiveness, Door of the Sticks (or Adoration of the Magi), and the Door of the Bells. 

The burial place of Chistopher Columbus is just one symbol of its connection to the new world exploration: it was the trade wealth from the Americas that allowed such a large monstrosity to be built, and the gold that gilds its interior came from the new world. Along with the Alcazar and the General Archive of the Indies, it was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1987.

Interesting Anecdote: In 1874, artist Bartolome Esteban Murillo's painting of Saint Anthony was stolen, only to be sold to the New York City Art Gallery by an immigrant, who purchased it for $250 and sent it back to Spain.

 

 

 Source: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Seville_Cathedral

#753 Palma de Mallorca, Spain

In its past life it was a Roman camp, but it suffered Vandal and Viking attacks, was influenced by the Byzantines, before being a Moorish stronghold (with both Muslims and Syrian Christians bringing their influences) until the Reconquista and James I established his control. Now it is a sailing hub, a strong Mediterranean destination, and a holiday location for the royals of Spain.

Capital of the autonomous Balearic Island provinces, it shows the influences of all its rulers in its narrow street layout (Moorish), architectural heritage (Byzantine cathedrals) and strategic location (Bellver Castle).

From Wikipedia Commons

The gothic-style Bellver Castle was built in the 14th Century for King James II, and is one of the few circular castles in Europe, possibly modeled on the Herodion in the West Bank, although with strong Moorish influences and use of former minarets. The castle was given to the City of Palma in 1931 by the republic to become a museum. The views from the top over the Bay of Palma are superb!

Why is it amazing? Its paths are as windy and narrow with as lovely restaurants as anywhere on the mainland, but the palm-tree breezes and nearby caves and beaches give it a holiday feeling. Island fever with historical city charm!

 

Source: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Palma,_Majorca

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bellver_Castle

#946 The Mezquita, Cordoba, Spain

The first time I heard about the Mezquita in Cordoba, I was studying Moorish and Islamic architecture in Morocco. Seeing slides of this beautiful construction made me long for many years to visit it. The first thing that stuck in my memory were the magnificent double arches in striking pink and white stripes. The arch itself is an amazing construction, but to have two so beautifully decorated, with the lower one free standing, and replicated over and over to make an Alice in Wonderland, icing-on-the-cake magic was original.

Originally built as a mosque by the Moors that controlled Southern Spain (Al-Andalusia), after the Spaniards pushed the Muslim empire back into North Africa, the building had a 16th Century cathedral built in the very center, which tended to make it much darker, and many other features were added. The technical complexity and unity of the original mosque are astounding and a wonder of the time (it was started in 785 by Abd ar-Rahman I). Ironically, it was not originally a Muslim site -- he purchased half from the Christian community in order to make the mosque.

Of the original 1300 columns, an astounding 850 remain, creating a forest-like interior, and some are uniquely bubbled, creating a more cloud-like image. The domes also display a complex geometry and beauty that has withstood the test of time to remain solid and as pretty as when they were created, although with the addition of Catholic imagery.

Source: Lonely Planet Spain, 4th Edition

#981 Alhambra Palace, Granada, Spain

The crown jewel of beautiful Andalusia lies in the city of Granada (pomegranate!): The Alhambra Palace. An amazing Islamic structure in Europe, it was the last stronghold of the Moors before they were conquered by Isabel and Ferdinand, and expelled by the Inquisition.

The name comes from the Arabic name al qala'at al-hamra (red castle), and began in the 9th century as a fortress until the Nasrid emirs turned it into palace in the 13th and 14th centuries. Napoleon occupied it and almost blew it up, but the world didn't really take notice until the Romantics brought it to the world's attention in the 1830s. And what a beauty it is! A spectacular mix of architecture, history, gardens, and archaeological remnants, it tumbles over the hill and overlooks the modern town.

In the Medina

The Bathhouse

The large gated entrance - Puerto Justicia.

View from the Mexuar entrance way inside the Palacio Nazaries.

Patio del Cuarto Dorado (the golden room) in the Palacio Nazaries

The amazing muqarnas (stalactites) and the floral motifs made with wet plaster in the Palacio Nazaries  

The Torre de Comares of the Palacio de Comares and the Patio de los Arrayenes (Patio of the Myrtles)

Amazing muqarnas in the Patio de los Leones in the Palacio Nazaries

Patio de los Leones in the Palacio Nazaries

Patio de los Leones in the Palacio Nazaries

Jardines del Partal

View from the Torre de la Vela of the Alcazaba looking back towards the Palacio Nazaries and the Palacio de Carlos V 

Alcazaba

Palacio de Carlos V

Gardens of the Generalife

View of the Alhambra palace from the Summer Palace.

Postcard of the Alhambra Palace with the Sierra Nevada behind.

Source: Lonely Planet 'Spain' 4th Edition.