#799 Uplistikhe, Georgia

Capadocia in Turkey receives a lot of fame for being a settlement constructed out of rock, but its far from being the only one in the region. Across the border and into Georgia, there are several: Davit Gareje Monastery (#964) is one, and Uplistikhe is another.

With many worn carvings of structural elements like stairs and decorate pieces, Uplistikhe is not magnificent in its beauty but in the imagination for what once was that it leaves with you. Once an enormous 20,000-inhabitant caravan-route cave city on the northern bank of the Mtkvari River (10km east of present day city Gori) with views for miles around, the area now visited is the Inner City (Shida Kalaki) of an ancient (one of the oldest) place of settlement dating back to around 1000 BC. Settled and developed predominantly during the 6th century BC to the 1st century AD, by the pre-Christian Kartli (a.k.a. Iberia to classical writers), it was an important political and religious center dedicated primarily to the sun goddess. Archaeological results from later periods (especially the 4th-6th centuries AD) show the struggle between Christian and pre-Christian groups. With the arrival of Christianization also appears to have been the beginning of its decline in importance, although it was strong during the Muslim conquest in the 8th and 9th centuries.

Though it began to decline before this, it was ultimately sacked by the Mongols in 1240 and remained covered until around 1957, when archaeologists took the tops of caves visible above the dirt down to the rock level. Various artifacts were found including gold, silver and bronze jewelry, ceramics and sculptures.

Important parts of the site:

• The Theatre has octagonal designs carved on the ceiling in a similar style to the Caracalla Baths in Rome and was probably a temple from the 1st or 2nd century AD.
• The Temple of Makvliani has an inner recess behind an arched portico, and an open hall in front with stone seats for the priests and two rounded holes on the floor for the blood of sacrificed animals.
• The Tamaris Darbazi (Hall of Queen Tamar) has two columns built into the cliff and a stone seat. The ceiling is cut to look like wooden beams and there is a hole to let smoke out and light in. Although originally pagan, perhaps Christian Queen Tamar later occupied it. There are stone niches along one side believe to have once been a pharmacy.
• The triple basilica Uplistikhe Eklesia (Prince's or Lord's Fortress Church) at the top of the hill dates from the 10th century and was built over a pagan temple.
• A tunnel (see photo above) runs down to the river in an emergency escape/water collection route.
• Other structures include a bakery, a prison and an ampitheatre.

This is the most famous image of Uplistikhe -- the face in the rock that is an accident of a doorway eroding away.

NOTE: Since 2007 it has been a tentative candidate for inclusion in the UNESCO World Heritage List, but it is not yet fully included.

Source: Lonely Planet Georgia, Armenia and Azerbaijan 3rd Edition 2008
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Uplistsikhe
http://www.atlasobscura.com/places/uplistsikhe-cave-town
http://whc.unesco.org/en/tentativelists/5234/

#959 Svaneti, Georgia

Hidden high in the western Caucasus mountains of Georgia, well above the snow line in winter, is the Svaneti valley. It's picturesque steep hills criss-crossed with cool creeks and gushing mountain streams, the summer pastures green and lush but the mountain peaks always snow-capped.

Svaneti's mystique lies in its history. Its inaccessibility provided a safe haven for those in the valleys and plains below in times of conflict and war, particularly during the time of the marauding Mongols. Valuables, jewelry and riches were brought up the valley and stored in special towers, accessible only through one door, so easily defended. The towns of Mestia, and the villages of Lenjeri and Latali hold towers and relics of this time, with the prescence of many simple stone towers, still maintained in old fashioned ways, where the stone walls are black with soot from fires and the wooden frames and animal husbandry haven't changed in centuries. The UNESCO World Heritage listed tower-houses are starting to crumble, but those that remain are a connection to stories and heritage and a testament to isolation.

Source: http://www.tikatours.com/geo/index.php?wiv=red&dos=3&id=27
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Svaneti
http://whc.unesco.org/en/list/709/

#964 Davit Gareje Monastery, Georgia

Davit Gareje is a monastery in Georgia quite near to the Azeri border founded in the 6th Century by St. David Garejeli, one of the 13 Assyrian monks and remains an important religious site to this day. It is hidden away in rolling grass-covered hills and its prescence and complexity remain hidden until inside the complex walls. Reminiscent of Capadocia in Turkey, it is carved into a sloping hillside, with rooms cut directly from the rock. It was fortified from invaders with a strong wall and other buildings added to the complex apart from the cave dwellings, and continues up the hillside of Mount Gareje to the highest point.

Source: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/David_Gareja_monastery_complex

#997 Tbilisi, Georgia

Mother Georgia - Karlis Deda

The old town of Tbilisi is famous for it's ornate colored balconies.

Georgians are warm, welcoming, friendly people, happy to share their wine, cha-cha, history, stories, and laughs. Tbilisi is the center of this delightful culture. Sprawled along the picturesque Mtkvari River, with the large Narikala castle-fort overlooking it (and of course Mother Georgia), Tbilisi is a pretty capital, and compact enough for nice walks around the center.

Rumored to be founded for it's hot thermal baths, and famous for them since the Byzantine era, it is now the political, cultural, religious and education capital of this small Caucasus nation. It is peppered with orthodox churches (The Georgian Christian Church is the second oldest Christian faith in the world) and nearby Mtskheta houses the current archbishop.

View of  Narikala fortress.

Mtkvari River. The large Tsminda Sameba Cathedral in the center  has only been finished quite recently.

The folk dancing in Georgia is pretty amazing and Tbilisi is a great place to see it -- the women glide over the floor as if they take no steps (like ghosts), and dance on their toes (without wooden toe shoes like in ballet). The men jump and kick in true Caucasus fashion-- fascinating to watch!