#745 Baalbek, Lebanon

Tourist entrance into Baalbek - The portico bears the inscription
'For the safety and victories of our lord, Caraculla.'

I think the most impressive Roman ruins I have ever seen were in Lebanon. In the Bekaa Valley, far from coastal Beirut and old Byblos (#840), lies fertile farmland, wineries and other riches that helped to make Baalbek superior. Definitely the most impressive site in Lebanon, it is also one of the most impressive in the Middle East. Called the 'Sun City' (Heliopolis) by Alexander the Great, it was a place famed for the mystic powers of its courtyard complex which was built of a size to rival those in Rome.

Originally a Phoenician settlement dating back to the 3rd millennium BC, the first temple was built to the god Baal, from which we get its name and derive fascinating yet horrific sacrifice and ritualistic prostitution stories. It's a prime location for a settlement with two nearby springs and its between two local rivers. as well as being on the east-west and north-south trade routes between the coast and desert Palmyra (#952). It was visited by Pompey the Great, Julius Caesar (who renamed it for his daughter Julia) and construction on the Roman temples began in around 60BC, which continued for centuries under Nero, Antonius Pius, and Caracalla. Some historians speculate that the grand-ness of the temples was a contrast to the emerging religion of Christianity and to show off the political and civilizing power of Rome. It was representative of the struggle as work halted with the back-and-forth tug of war between religions, and after 379, Theodosius converted the temples into a basilica, but as pagan rituals continued, Justinian had parts of the temples destroyed and the pillars moved to become part of the Aya Sofia in Istanbul (#969). It was an important enough site to be sacked by the Arabs (in 748) and Tamerlane (in 1400) and visited by Kaiser Wilhem II (in 1898), but it was also ravaged by nature with significant earthquakes (in 1158, 1203, 1664 and 1759) which also caused damage and exodus of the population.

The First (Hexagonal) Courtyard:
Fifty meters  deep, with the famous bas-relief of Jupiter Heliopolitan found 7km from Baalbek, this area would have been surrounded by columned portico.

 

The Second Great/Sacrificial Courtyard:

With an arcade of 84 columns each harboring areas for statues and decorative niches and two pools (with decorations showing Trions, Nereids, Medusas and Cupids), this is area held many important discoveries. The basilica in the center was completely dismantled by the French archaeologists to reveal a huge altar.

 

The High Temple (of Jupiter):

Over 300m long, 10 columns by 19 columns (for a total of 54), with an enormous staircase that allowed it to rise high above all the surrounding buildings, this is the most impressive building in Baalbek. It's columns are the largest in the world (22.9m high with girth of 2.2m) and were thought to have been built by giants in ancient times. Only six remain standing in original form, and the building blocks used to construct the temple are some of the biggest anywhere (one alone is 19.5m by 4.3m). The views over the Temple of Bacchus are superb.

 

 

The Temple of Bacchus (actually a temple to Venus):

Bacchus, said to be connected to Baal of old and his consort Astarte (Venus/Aphrodite), the rituals of the era performed in their honor shocked visitors with public sexual displays and prostitution within the temple, not to mention wine! Completed around 150 AD and very well-preserved, this temple has some of the most beautiful decoration that exists in the Roman world. Though called the 'small temple' in antiquity it is larger than the Parthenon in Athens. 30 flights of stairs with 3 landings lead up to the main area of portico with 8 columns by 15 columns along the sides. Decorated with lions, bulls, Mars, winged Victory, arrow -appointed Diana, Vulcan with hammer, Bacchus and Ceres with a sheaf of corn, it is very beautiful and diverse.

Source: Lonely Planet Syria & Lebanon 2nd Edition 2004

#748 Fethiye, Turkey

Livable and yet still traditional, Fethiye is a pretty town on a beautiful bay on Turkey's southern coast, flooded with history and heritage, mixed with modern, tourist-oriented Turkey. Named for an early Turkish pilot, ironically it doesn't even have its own airport (most traffic uses Dalaman, and hour to the west), but it was previously known as Makri ('long one' from the shape of its harbor).  

As ancient Lycia's most important city Telmessos ('the land of lights') from the 5th Century B.C., historical relics abound such as the tombs seen on the hills (including the Tomb of Amyntas) , the Hellenistic theatre near the marina and the sarcophagi in the middle of the street! Either as Telmessos or Anastasioupolis, as it was also known it has variably been part of the Persian empire, the Attic-Delos Union, Alexander the Great's empire, the Roman then Byzantine empire, until it became Ottoman after the late 12th century. It has been known for its perfume production, and for having a sizeable Greek population before the population exchange.

Now a major tourist hub, with several stunning beaches (such as Oludeniz, supposedly the most photographed in the Mediterranean, and Chalish), pretty harbors and bays, ancient Lycian cities and the famous Lycian Way walking path, sailing opportunities, market stalls, small villages (including the ghost village a Karakoy) and resorts. With the Taurus Mountains rising up as a backdrop to the calm turquoise waters, and an ideal temperature and climate, its popularity is not surprising.

 

Source: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fethiye



#809 Failaka Island, Kuwait

One of THE things to see and do in Kuwait is go to Failaka Island. With a name that derives from the Ancient Greeks that lived here (fylakio means outpost), its position 20km off the coast is in the strategic Persian Gulf waters at the mouth of the Tigris and Euphrates rivers. Home to the Mesopotamians, the Dilmun civilization, as well the Sumerians, who left cuneiform texts on the island, and the Babylonians, not to mention the local kingdom of Characene based in the Bay of Kuwait. Alexander the Great passed through in 311 BC and the Greeks left ruins of a Hellenistic Fort and two temples, which are among the ruins from many eras including a Babylonian temple to Shamash. The Christian Nestorians were there during the Byzantine era, to be replaced by various Muslim empires. It has been known variably as Agarum, Ikaros, and now Failaka.

The Gulf War was particularly harsh with the residents being relocated to the mainland and the beaches being mined and the area used for target practice. Many building have been abandonned and still sit riddled with bullet holes.

On a more hopeful note, springtime is considered special due to its ecological difference from the Kuwaiti mainland, with budding flowers making an excuse for a city getaway. Perhaps not awe-inspiringly amazing, but definitely unique!

The other thing to see while on Failaka is the Camel Farm!

 Source: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Failaka_Island