Wednesday, May 23, 2012

#985 Sanaa, Yemen

One of the oldest continually inhabited places on the planet, and on the recent news for its protests and government clampdowns, Sanaa should not be known for infamy, because it is a magical city of ancient alleys and beautiful architecture, famous for it's 'icing cake' buildings. Desert mountains frame the cityscape of mosques and minarets glowing in the afternoon sun.

Yemen is a place that has been very little influenced by the outside world. Most women still wear complete black abayas, and most men still meet in the afternoons to chew Qat and converse with their friends in the public squares. To have history so preserved (good or bad depending on the perspective) is a fascinating thing to experience. There are very few high rises, technology is rare, and people truly live as they have for millenia. The view from the rooftops, while drinking tea and watching life go by is a unique experience.

We loved the fact that the main road through the city is along the bottom of the riverbed, which is only filled with water for a small part of the year. We loved staying in an ancient hotel with meter-thick walls and tiny windows looking down on the alleys, up a winding set of ancient steps embedded in the walls. 





Wednesday, May 16, 2012

#986 Villa de Leyva, Colombia

More recent picture from villadeleyva.com.co
Main square in 2007
In the hills near Bogota is a charming little town called Villa de Leyva. It has a huge old square, lovely craft shops and charming restaurants. Hiking in the hills, fossils and other outdoor activities are just some of the range of activities, but I love exploring the courtyards and cafes. This was where they filmed the latest Zorro film, and as you can see from the photos above, they had to paint the town white for it -- looks super! This is an amazing place because it's been cultivated so well into hosting people, and it retains a charming old worldliness, yet the markets on the outskirts are the same as they were 50 years ago with fruit and veges and other things for dinner. 

Monday, May 14, 2012

#987 Orkney Islands, Scotland, Britain

Just north of John O' Groats, the tip of the Scottish mainland, in the cold North Sea lie the Orkney Islands. Very few trees, vicious winds, rough seas, and general misty coldness make it less than appealing for some, but amazingly mystical for others. The hardy settlers live above a wide range of historical relics, from the early stone mason tribes to the Picts, Norse, Scots and Danes. Anyone interested in neolithic cultures will adore Skara Brae, Europe's most complete Stone Age village, unearthed in a storm in 1850. Of its 70 islands, 20 of which are inhabited, spectacular birdlife abounds, and there are beautiful walks along impressive cliffs. It is also home to several WWII wrecks (near the base at Scapa Flow).

Ring of Brodgar stone circle and other monoliths.


Skara Brae

Kirkwall, the capital of the Orkneys.
Source: Wikipedia 'Skara Brae', 'Orkney Islands'

Sunday, May 13, 2012

#988 Marrakech, Morocco

Djema El Fna, the main square, with the red buildings behind and the orange juice sellers and other vendors.
Morocco is my heart. I lived there for a year while I was at university, then lived with Moroccan friends in Washington, DC for another year, and had very good Moroccan friends while I lived in Seoul, Korea. I wish my Darija was better than it is, but I love the thought that I can always go back one day to improve!

Koutoubia Minaret
If I was to choose one place in Morocco that embodied me, it would be Marrakech, though of course I love the other cities, too! The desert and the mountains and the red walls and the heat of the day! Wow! Djema El Fna, the main square is an amazing place to be -- during the day there are snake charmers, music, and other exotic stalls, and at night the people and food stalls (particularly the delicious orange juice) are lively and exciting. I remember in particular the snails eaten with safety pins.

Palace ruins/gardens
Hidden tombs in the old city, only discovered in 1915 during a flight over.
None of these pictures do it justice, because the magic of Marrakech is in its ambiance.
Menara gardens in Marrakech

Saturday, May 12, 2012

#989 Glacier Bay National Park, Alaska, USA

Relief map. Source: Wikipedia
A glacier is an amazing thing to behold - centuries of collected snow and ice, piled up, a weather record like no other that is living, moving, mass that is both affected by and affects its environment, carving valleys and mountains.

Glacier Bay National Park's highest mountain, Mt Fairweather.
What's amazing about Glacier Bay National Park (not to be confused with Glacier National Park in Montana), is the sheer number of glaciers dotted in and out of the fjords and mountains near Juneau, Alaska. A national park since 1925, and later enlarged to include other park areas, it is also a UNESCO World Heritage site. What would have been amazing to see is the difference between the turn of the 20th Century and now -- in 100 or so years, the entire bay (30 odd miles) has been carved by the glaciers whereas before it used to calve directly into the Gulf of Alaska.

GBNP includes 9 tidewater glaciers, which mean that they calve directly into the ocean -- impressive considering they began high in the mountains, and sometimes the face of the glaciers is several miles wide.


The glacial moraine left behind by a receding glacier

The long path down the valley.


A great image of a very steep glacier with a huge 'accumulation zone'

Another great way to see the glaciers is from a cruise!

A cruise ship sails past the face through the glacial shoal.
30 miles of Glacier Bay that has been created by the glaciers over the last century.
Glacier from glacier head at the top of the mountain to glacier foot or terminus, sometimes called the face.
A calving glacier -- the pattern in the water shows where it calved from and the drifting ice pieces.
The patterns and lines of crevasses showing the dirt collected as the glacier moves down the valley.
The cruise ship is dwarfed by a split glacier behind.

The green glacial lakes above Glacier Bay known as cirques.

The best way to truly appreciate it's awe-inspiring ice rivers is a flight over: I took mine from Haines.

Source of information: Wikipedia 'Glacier Bay National Park', 'Tidewater glacial cycle' and 'Glacier'
Two glaciers meet at the ocean.

Wednesday, May 9, 2012

#990 Antigua, Guatemala

Nestled amongst several scenic volcanoes, in a hot earthquake zone (so hot the town was ruined so badly the capitol was abandoned for Guatemala City), Antigua is a beautiful mix of tourism, Spanish schools, churches, culture, history, nature, leafy courtyards, chic cafes/bars, foodie restaurants, and vibrant markets. 
Once the epicenter of Spanish power in Central America, it is now just a big town up the hills from the concrete jungle of Guatemala City. It's amazing because of it's rich history and ruins, because it's so beautiful and quaint, because there are so many idyllic streets and hidden spots to explore.


Monday, May 7, 2012

#991 Persepolis, Iran

One of the most famous sites of the ancient world, it was sacked by Alexander the Great in 330BC.  Parsa, or Persepolis (meaning city of Persia as it was called by the Greeks) is a city that wasn't really a city. It was purely ceremonial and palatial, with the plebes living half a day's trek away in Istakhr (which remains completely unexcavated, almost a memorial to the conquering massacre of the 8th century).
Why is it amazing?
1. Buried Treasure: Although known and visible, its most precious treasures were completely buried by sand until 1930.
2. Linguistics: There are cuneiform inscriptions in Old Persian, Neo-Babylonian and Elamite.
3. Famous visitors: It is easy to see the graffiti dating through the ages, especially on the famous gateway.
4. Incredibly carvings that tell many stories and document history: bas-reliefs on the Apadana staircase show many traditions of the Achaemenids, and include members of the various ethnicities in the Persian empire like Arabs, Thracians, Indians, Parthians, Cappadocians, Elamites, Medians, and Ethiopians giving offerings to the emperor.
5. Living Iranian/Persian Pride: Iranians love to visit Persepolis during 'No Ruz' and celebrate their New Year (March 21) which dates back to Zoroastrian and Persian times.
6. Controversy: security is tight because Islamic Fundamentalists still try to destroy and deface it.
7. No longevity, but fame: It wasn't actually lived in for that long - only around 250 years, but it is one of the most famous ancient cities, and is taught about in schools around the world.

Information adapted partially from Lonely Planet Iran 5th edition.
Offerings from the various tribes of the Persian empire.
Soldiers lined up on the Apadana staircase. The hairstyle is a distinctively Persian carving style.

The famous mythical bull-like beasts that guard the gates to Persepolis. They were disfigured by Arab conquerors who believed animal/face depictions to be anti-Islamic.
The Necropolis - tombs to famous Achaemenid kings. Note: These are not in Persepolis itself, but close by.
View of Persepolis from the cliff behind.